Just because “old” is in the name doesn’t mean there isn’t plenty of excitement in Old Town Chinatown. Yes, it’s a bit grungy, but Portland’s history runs deeper than the Shanghai Tunnels here (more on that later), and it’s a fascinating place to peel back the layers.
Why You Should Visit This Week: One Last Bloom
Mum’s the word, but we can’t keep this to ourselves. Of course, we’re talking about Lan Su Chinese Garden’s Chrysanthemum Festival, which returns Nov. 5-22 in honor of the flower that symbolizes nobility, longevity, and autumn. Guests can appreciate 81 different varieties across the grounds during this event, which features floral art installations, horticulture workshops, and other cultural experiences. Some require a special ticket:
- Nights of the Golden Flower | Nov. 5-8, sensory night Nov. 14
- Steep & Paint | Nov. 13 & 20
- Holiday Dried Flower Wreath Workshop with Walking Whale Flower Farm | Nov. 15
History: Built by Immigrants
Chinese workers began arriving in waves after the city’s incorporation in 1851. The Portland Chinatown Museum preserves life during this era, showcasing the vibrant culture that thrived in the face of the government’s Chinese Exclusion Act.
Later in the 19th century, Japanese laborers moved into the same area to fill positions at timber mills, farms, and canneries, while developing their own Japantown (Nihonmachi) community. To grasp all of the stories that unfolded in the streets below the cast-iron buildings takes time, so the Japanese American Museum of Oregon is worth a visit.
Chrysanthemums offer gardeners a splash of color deep into fall and, with some varieties, early winter. (Daderot / Wikimedia Commons)
Points of Interest: Tales From the Underground
The neighborhood is host to the White Stag Sign and Union Station, as well as Portland’s oldest piece of public art: Skidmore Fountain, which would’ve pumped Henry Weinhard’s beer at its dedication if not for public officials' fear of inebriated horses.
The Portland Saturday Market along the waterfront runs March through Christmas Eve. Shop from the many arts and crafts booths, like Bridgetown Sparrow Ceramics, Penrose Candles, or Bright Moon Jewelry.
Tours of the infamous Shanghai Tunnels — a network of underground passageways once used for all manner of illicit purposes — are offered weekly. Guests will hear haunting stories as they navigate the warren, wrapping up with a tasting at Old Town Brewing (ask to see the ghostly footage of the bar; it is eerie).
Food & Drink: Highs and Lows
The Hoxton, Portland is a happening destination for dinner and drinks or even a staycation. Ride the elevator up to Tope, a rooftop taqueria with some of the best views in town that you can enjoy with tequila in hand, or head down to 2NW5, the basement speakeasy with elegant libations (shaken or stirred) and coastal Mexican seafood.
Here are some other bites to try:
- Buranko Cafe & Bar has incredible pan-Asian fare (try the beef bulgogi bowl and crispy chicken curry) as well as a sizable play area for the kiddos.
- Pine Street Market is an indoor food hall featuring a taproom and juice bar, handmade dumplings and bao, Costa Rican cuisine, Thai comfort food, Matsunoki Ramen (the black garlic shoyu is bomb), and Lil’ Funky Donuts.
- If long lines don’t feel like a pretzel stick through your heart, Voodoo Doughnut is also in the vicinity.
Fun & Games: Drag and Donkey Kong
Many music and theater venues line the pockets of Old Town, including the Star Theater, the Roseland Theater, Dante’s (renowned for its “Sinferno Cabaret”), and the even-more-iconic Darcelle XV Showplace. Before your night is over, play a few rounds on the vintage side-scrolling or pinball games at Ground Kontrol Classic Arcade and Bar.
Of course, there’s much more to do and see in Old Town Chinatown. Want us to add to this list? Please email us your recs.
