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Your Guide to Eliot

Posted on June 14

Ben McBee

A scene from 1977 in Northeast Portland shows a crowded street made up predominantly of Black people. The sun shines brightly and people are jubilant with smiles on many faces following the Portland Trail Blazers’ NBA championship.

After the Trail Blazers won the NBA championship in 1977, people flooded the street outside Geneva’s Lounge, a soul food buffet just north of Eliot. (Courtesy of Albina Music Trust)

The construction of Interstate 5 in the early 1960s cut through the heart of Albina, the historic center of Portland’s Black community. While the scars of racist practices such as redlining and urban renewal are still evident, there are also signs of healing. Community leaders have visions of restoration, and groups, like the Albina Music Trust, understand the power of preserving the sounds of the past. This summer, the Eliot neighborhood is their stage.

🎷 Why You Should Visit This Week: Soul Walk North

In 2021, the AMT debuted Albina Soul Walk (now Soul Walk South), a self-guided walking and listening tour that highlights the significance of the area’s music scene. The nonprofit will reveal its follow-up project, Soul Walk North, at a street party today outside of Lillis-Albina Park. Attendees can interact with community organizations, including 1803 Fund and Word is Bond, eat delicious food, enjoy live performances, and set out on the approximately 1-mile 90-minute tour of Eliot and beyond.

AMT’s Executive Director Bobby Smith explained to City Cast Portland how it works. “Soul Walk North invites users to visit historic landmarks where music thrived in Portland's Black community. We're talking record stores, clubs, churches, barber shops, parks, and more. When you reach these locations, the app triggers storytelling with community members, like a podcast,” he said.

Simply download the free ECHOES app — available in the Apple App or Google Play stores — pop in some headphones, and get moving. Throughout, you’ll hear songs from 30 or so bands and narration from musician Arietta Ward.

“As a product of Albina myself, the importance of the stories provide context to many of the revitalization efforts that are in motion currently,” she said. “It also provides a reference to those who want to know the accurate accounts of the experiences from those who lived through the generational shifts that altered many families’ livelihood and potential of having wealth. The urgency of the information also helps with the prevention of repeating the cycles.”

Food & Drink: Bagels and Buzzer-Beaters

Concertgoers at Wonder Ballroom, healthcare workers from Legacy Emanuel Medical Center, fans of Rip City — they all get hungry, and thankfully, the neighborhood is a smorgasbord.

☕ Gallop to Kalesa Coffee for flavors of the Philippines (coconut cold brew with ube whip, anyone?). Portland Cà Phê and Harder Day Coffee can also satisfy your caffeine cravings.

🥯 You’ll find Bernstein’s Bagels schmeared across many countrywide “best of” rankings; their Popper sandwich, with Mama Lil’s pepper cream cheese, avocado, egg, and sweet onion, is at the top of our list.

🏀 You’ll have to excuse us for dreaming about visiting the Cartside Food carts, grabbing a pint at The Garden Tavern, mowing down on a gyro from The Shawarma Truck, then heading a few blocks south to watch Damian Lillard drain 3-pointers like it's 2019. Soon…

🥩 OX’s Argentine-inspired wood-fired steaks and Queen of Sheba’s Ethiopian dishes are worth checking out, too.

Did we miss something in Eliot? Send us a line to share your recs.

🎙️ More Eliot listening

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